Chilli Seeds in Ireland
Chillies need a longer season than Ireland gives them, so the whole approach here is about buying time at the start and holding warmth at the end. That means a January or February sowing with a heated propagator, a grow light to stop the seedlings stretching in our weak winter daylight, and a greenhouse, polytunnel or sunny windowsill for the summer. Done that way they crop well. Sown in April and planted in an open bed, they will not.
Sowing and harvest calendar for Ireland
Months shaded below are the reliable windows for Irish conditions.
Quick facts
- Botanical name
- Capsicum annuum
- Difficulty
- Challenging
- Hardiness
- Tender, no frost tolerance
- In Ireland
- Needs a greenhouse or tunnel
- Germination
- 7 to 21 days at 25 to 30C
- Sowing depth
- 5mm
- Spacing
- 45cm apart, 50cm between rows
- Position
- Full sun
- Containers
- Grows well in pots
- Sowing to harvest
- 18 to 26 weeks
- Harvest
- August to October
Sowing depth and spacing
Drawn to scale from the figures in this guide.
How deep, seen from the side
How far apart, seen from above
The best chilli varieties for Irish gardens
Picked for how they perform in a cool, damp, short summer rather than for catalogue photos.
Apache F1
AGMF1 hybrid / Compact hot chilli
The best chilli for a windowsill or a small greenhouse: knee high, heavy cropping, and genuinely hot despite the size.
Growing notes and stockistsHungarian Hot Wax
AGMOpen pollinated / Early wax type, mild to medium heat
The most forgiving chilli for a cool Irish greenhouse: early, mild, and perfectly usable at the pale yellow stage before it ever turns red.
Growing notes and stockistsPadron
Open pollinated / Small green frying pepper
Arguably the smartest chilli choice for an Irish season, because you harvest it small and green and never wait for it to ripen.
Growing notes and stockistsJalapeno
Open pollinated / Medium heat, thick walled
The chilli everyone recognises, and a fair choice here because you pick it green anyway, so the Irish season never has to ripen it.
Growing notes and stockistsCayenne
Open pollinated / Long thin drying chilli, hot
The one to grow if you want your own dried chilli flakes, but it needs a January sowing and a warm greenhouse to finish properly.
Growing notes and stockistsHow to sow chilli seeds
Sow into fresh, moist seed compost in a small pot or module tray, cover with about 5mm, and firm gently. Water before sowing rather than after, so you are not washing the seed about.
Then give it heat from below. Chilli seed wants the compost held at 25 to 30C, and held is the word that matters: a windowsill at 24C in the afternoon and 11C at three in the morning will not do it. A heated propagator or a thermostatic heat mat is the one piece of kit that changes chilli growing here from unreliable to routine.
Germination takes seven to twenty-one days, and hotter varieties are usually at the slow end. Do not give up at two weeks.
The instant the first loop of stem appears, get the tray into light. From a January or February sowing that means under a grow light for 14 to 16 hours a day, positioned 20 to 30cm above the seedlings. Irish daylight at that time of year will not build a sturdy plant, and unlike a tomato, a stretched chilli seedling cannot be fixed by potting it deeper.
Prick out into 9cm pots at the first true leaves, keeping the plants somewhere around 20C afterwards. They can come off the bottom heat once they are up but they should not go anywhere cold.
Growing on in Irish conditions
Pot on into 2 litre pots as roots fill the 9cm ones, then into a 5 litre pot for a compact variety or 10 litres for a taller one, or into a greenhouse border.
Move plants to their final position in a greenhouse, polytunnel, porch or windowsill from late May. Do not plant into an open bed. Keep fleece to hand for cold nights in May and early June, because cool nights during flowering are the main reason an Irish chilli plant sets less fruit than it should.
Pinch out the growing tip at around 20cm to encourage branching, which produces more flowering points and a sturdier plant. Stake taller varieties once the fruit start to weigh the branches down.
Feed with a high potash tomato feed once the first fruit have set, and water evenly. Chillies want less water than tomatoes and dislike sitting wet, but a plant that dries out completely will drop its flowers.
On warm still days under glass, tap the stems or brush the open flowers with a fingertip. Chilli flowers are self fertile but need movement to shed pollen, and a closed Irish greenhouse in June has very little of it.
Harvesting
Fruit are usable green from July and ripe from August onwards, with the main flush through September and October under cover.
Cut fruit off with scissors or secateurs rather than pulling, because the brittle branches snap easily. Picking regularly makes the plant produce more, so take fruit as they colour rather than leaving a full plant to look impressive.
Green chillies are milder and taste more vegetal; the same fruit left to ripen fully is hotter and sweeter. Most of the heat sits in the white pith around the seeds rather than the seeds themselves, so removing the pith is what reduces the heat of a dish.
Thin walled varieties such as cayenne dry beautifully on a string in a warm room. Thick walled ones such as jalapeno do not dry well in Irish air and are better frozen whole, which works far better than it sounds, or pickled.
Overwintering for a second year
This is the single most useful trick for an Irish chilli grower. In late October, once cropping finishes, pick everything, cut the plant back to a framework of about 15cm of woody stem, and remove all the remaining leaves.
Keep the pot somewhere frost free and reasonably bright at roughly 10 to 15C, a spare bedroom windowsill or a heated porch rather than a cold greenhouse, and water only enough to stop the compost drying out completely, perhaps once every three weeks. The plant will look dead. That is expected.
In March, move it back into warmth and light, top dress with fresh compost and start watering and feeding again. New shoots come from the old wood within a few weeks, and because it starts as an established plant it flowers a month or more earlier and crops far more heavily than a first year plant. Some will not make it through, so keep two if you have the space.
What goes wrong with chillies in Ireland
Seed that never germinates
Signs: Nothing showing after three or four weeks, seed still intact when you dig it out of the compost.
What to do: This is the single most common chilli failure and it is nearly always temperature. Chilli seed wants consistent 25 to 30C at the compost, not air temperature in the room, and a windowsill in an Irish February swings from 22C in the afternoon to 10C overnight. A heated propagator or a heat mat with a thermostat fixes it outright. Failing that, the top of a fridge or a hot press works better than a windowsill. Be patient: even in ideal conditions some varieties take three weeks.
Leggy pale seedlings
Signs: Long bare stems, small pale seed leaves, plants bending hard towards the glass by early March.
What to do: Natural light in an Irish January and February is not enough for a seedling that has just germinated in 28C. If you are sowing that early, a grow light is not optional. Run it for 14 to 16 hours a day from the moment the shoots break the surface, and keep it close, 20 to 30cm above the plants. Without a light, sow in March instead and accept a later crop. Unlike tomatoes, chillies do not root readily along a buried stem, so a leggy chilli seedling cannot be rescued by deep potting.
Flowers dropping without setting fruit
Signs: Open flowers falling off at the joint, a plant covered in buds in June with no fruit forming.
What to do: Cool nights, most often. Chillies set poorly when nights fall below about 15C, which is normal in an Irish greenhouse until July. Close the greenhouse in the evening, use fleece or a large plastic bottle cloche over young plants on cold nights, and delay planting out to the greenhouse border until late May. Very dry air and lack of movement also prevent pollination, so tap the flower trusses daily or let a breeze through on warm days.
Fruit that stays green
Signs: Full sized fruit still green in late September, no sign of colour changing.
What to do: Usually too late a sowing, too many fruit, or not enough late warmth. Ripening is the slowest part of the process and it needs heat, so keep plants under cover into October and do not move them outside. Remove the smallest late fruit so the plant concentrates on the ones that have a chance. Picked green fruit will often colour on a warm windowsill beside a ripe banana, and green chillies are perfectly usable anyway.
Red spider mite
Signs: Fine speckling and bronzing on the upper leaf surface, faint webbing between stems and leaves, leaves dropping in a hot dry greenhouse.
What to do: A hot dry greenhouse in July is ideal for spider mite and Irish growers see it more on chillies than on almost anything else. Raise the humidity by damping down the greenhouse floor on hot mornings, which the mites dislike and the plants do not mind. Check under the leaves weekly from June. The predatory mite Phytoseiulus persimilis works well under glass and is sold by Irish suppliers.
Aphids on the growing tips
Signs: Clusters of green aphids on the soft new growth and flower buds, distorted leaves, sticky residue.
What to do: Chillies grown indoors and under glass have no natural predators to keep aphids down, so numbers build fast. Squash colonies by hand weekly from April, rinse the tips under a tap for plants in pots, and hang yellow sticky traps early. Plants moved out to a sheltered spot on warm days pick up ladybirds and hoverflies that do the job for you.
Where to buy chilli seeds in Ireland
Irish suppliers that stock this, so postage stays domestic and seed arrives in time to sow. These are plain links, not paid placements.
Order online
- Quickcrop Irish Chillies listed with peppers and tomatoes, sowing months on every product Ballymote based, lists sowing and harvest months per product and ships across Ireland. Visit Quickcrop , Co. Sligo
- Seedaholic Irish Wide chilli range with detailed packet notes, posted from Co. Galway Family run in Clonbur since 2005, deep heirloom range with detailed growing notes on every packet. Visit Seedaholic , Co. Galway
- Brown Envelope Seeds Irish Organic seed grown and saved in West Cork Grows and saves its own certified organic seed in West Cork, so the varieties are already adapted to Irish conditions. Visit Brown Envelope Seeds , Co. Cork
Garden centres and mixed retailers
- Mr Middleton Irish The familiar named varieties, posted from Dublin Mail order arm of a long established Mary Street shop, carries the familiar named varieties the organic specialists skip. Visit Mr Middleton , Co. Dublin
- The Organic Centre Irish Organic seed from Rossinver, Co. Leitrim Registered Irish charity at Rossinver with a 19 acre demonstration garden behind the seed catalogue. Visit The Organic Centre , Co. Leitrim
- Johnstown Garden Centre Irish Widest branded range, best ordered early in the year Third generation family business near Naas with the widest branded range, though popular varieties sell out by midsummer. Visit Johnstown Garden Centre , Co. Kildare
Common questions
When should I sow chilli seeds in Ireland?
January or February if you have a heated propagator and a grow light, and March if you do not. This is one of very few crops where sowing that early is genuinely right in Ireland, because a chilli takes five to six months from sowing to a ripe fruit and our warm season is shorter than that. The trap is sowing in January without a grow light, which gives you a tray of stretched seedlings that never make good plants. If you have no light, a mid-March sowing with bottom heat produces a stronger plant that catches up quickly and crops from late August.
Can you grow chillies outdoors in Ireland?
Not with any reliability. A chilli plant in an open Irish garden will grow, flower and set a few fruit in a good summer, but the nights are too cool for good fruit set and there is rarely enough heat in September and October to ripen what does set. The result is a small crop of green fruit. If outdoors is your only option, choose a compact early variety such as Apache F1 or Hungarian Hot Wax, grow it in a pot against a south facing wall, and bring the pot inside from September. A greenhouse, polytunnel, porch or sunny windowsill is a completely different proposition and is where chillies work here.
Why will my chilli seeds not germinate?
Almost certainly the compost is not warm enough. Chilli seed needs consistent bottom heat of 25 to 30C, and it is the temperature of the compost that matters, not the temperature of the room. An Irish windowsill in February drops close to outdoor temperature at night, and that cold swing stalls germination completely. A heated propagator or a thermostatically controlled heat mat is the reliable answer and is the single best piece of kit for growing chillies here. Sow into fresh moist seed compost, cover with 5mm, and keep the surface from drying out. Even at the right temperature, allow up to three weeks before giving up, and longer for hotter varieties.
Can I keep a chilli plant for a second year?
Yes, and it is one of the most useful things an Irish chilli grower can do. Chillies are tender perennials rather than annuals, and an overwintered plant starts the new season as an established woody shrub rather than a seedling, which effectively hands you back the two months our climate is short of. Fruit come earlier and in greater numbers in year two. Cut the plant back hard in late autumn, keep it barely moist somewhere frost free and bright at around 10 to 15C, and start watering and feeding again in March. Losses over winter are normal, so keep two plants if you can.
Why are my chillies not turning red?
Ripening needs sustained warmth and it is the part of the process an Irish season runs out of. Keep the plants under cover well into October, remove any tiny late fruit that will never finish, and be patient, because the colour change is slow and often happens all at once. Most varieties pass through green to red, and some through a purple or cream stage in between, which is normal and not a disease. Green chillies are perfectly good to eat, just milder and more vegetal, so a green crop is not a failed one.
Does the same variety vary in heat?
Considerably, which is worth knowing before you trust any Scoville figure. Capsaicin production rises with stress, so the same variety grown in a hot greenhouse with restrained watering will be noticeably hotter than one grown in a cool damp season with plenty of water. Fruit picked fully ripe are hotter than the same fruit picked green, and heat concentrates in the white pith around the seeds rather than in the seeds themselves. Published Scoville ranges are broad for exactly this reason, so treat them as a guide to where a variety sits relative to others rather than a measurement.
Do chillies need a greenhouse, or will a windowsill do?
A bright south facing windowsill genuinely works and is how a lot of Irish gardeners grow them, particularly compact varieties in 5 litre pots. It has one real advantage over a greenhouse here, which is that the nights are warmer indoors, and cool nights are what limits fruit set in an Irish greenhouse. A greenhouse or polytunnel gives more light, more space and a bigger crop, but wants closing in the evening from May. A porch or conservatory combines both and is the best spot of all if you have one.